Taiwan is an island of dramatic peaks, lush forests, and winding coastlines, making it a paradise for hikers. Yet, some of its most remarkable trails remain hidden gems, known only to locals and the most dedicated adventurers. Among these is the Tonghou Trail, a path that offers more than just stunning scenery; it’s a journey through Taiwan’s vibrant history and rich indigenous culture.
When I first heard about a trail so close to Taipei that promised remote jungles, crystal-clear rivers, and remnants of old logging operations, I was skeptical. It sounded too good to be true. But the Tonghou Trail delivered on every promise and then some. This path connects the hot spring town of Wulai in New Taipei with the rural landscapes of Datong in Yilan, offering a unique traverse across northern Taiwan.
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to explore this incredible route. We’ll cover its fascinating history, what to expect on the trail, and all the practical details for planning your own adventure. By the end, you’ll understand why this hike is a must-do for anyone looking to experience the wild, untamed heart of Taiwan.
A Path Forged by History
The Tonghou Trail is not just a recreational path; its roots run deep into Taiwan’s past. For centuries, it served as a vital route for the Atayal indigenous people, one of Taiwan’s most prominent tribes. They used this network of paths for hunting, trade, and travel between mountain communities. Hiking the Tonghou Trail today means you are literally walking in the footsteps of generations of Atayal people, and this connection to Atayal indigenous culture is palpable along the route.
During the Japanese occupation of Taiwan (1895-1945), the trail’s purpose shifted dramatically. The Japanese authorities recognized the area’s vast timber resources and transformed the ancient footpath into a logging road. They laid down rail tracks and built camps to facilitate the extraction of valuable cypress and camphor trees. As you hike, you’ll encounter haunting remnants of this era: rusted railway tracks swallowed by the forest floor, crumbling stone foundations of old logging stations, and abandoned access roads now reclaimed by nature. These silent relics serve as a powerful reminder of the trail’s layered history, adding a profound sense of discovery to the physical journey.
After World War II and the end of the logging boom, the trail fell into disuse and was slowly consumed by the jungle. It wasn’t until recent years that hiking enthusiasts and local communities worked to reopen it, transforming it into one of northern Taiwan’s premier Taiwan hiking trails.
Location and Unique Geography
The Tonghou Trail carves a path through the Xueshan Mountain Range, linking Wulai District in New Taipei City with Datong Township in Yilan County. This strategic location places it on the doorstep of Taipei, yet it feels a world away from the urban hustle. The trail generally follows the Tonghou North River, a pristine waterway that is a constant, soothing companion for much of the hike.
The geography is incredibly diverse. The Wulai side, at a higher elevation, is characterized by dense, subtropical broadleaf forests. The air is cool and moist, and the canopy is so thick in places that it creates a twilight effect even at midday. This section is a world of green, dominated by giant ferns, moss-covered trees, and the occasional burst of a wild orchid.
As you move east towards Yilan, the landscape gradually opens up. The trail descends, and the views expand to reveal the sweeping Lanyang Plain and the distant Pacific Ocean. The vegetation changes, and the river grows wider and more powerful. This geographical transition is one of the hike’s most captivating features, offering a dynamic and ever-changing backdrop for your adventure.
The Hiking Experience: What to Expect
The full point-to-point hike is approximately 23 kilometers long and typically takes between 6 and 9 hours to complete at a steady pace. It is rated as a moderate-level hike, making it accessible to anyone with a decent level of fitness. The most common route is to start in Wulai and hike east to Yilan, as it involves more downhill sections.
The trail itself is a mix of terrains:
- Forest Roads: The first and last sections of the trail follow old, paved, or gravel forest service roads. These parts are relatively flat and allow for easy, fast-paced walking.
- Single-Track Trails: The middle section is the heart of the hike. Here, the path narrows to a single track that winds through the dense jungle. This is where you’ll feel most immersed in nature.
- Rope-Assisted Sections: There are a few short, steep slopes where ropes have been installed for safety. These are not technical climbs but do require good balance and a bit of upper body strength to navigate.
- River Crossings: Depending on the season and recent rainfall, you may need to cross small streams or riverbeds. These are usually simple rock-hops, but it’s wise to have waterproof footwear.
Completing the hike brought an incredible sense of accomplishment. The final descent into Yilan, with panoramic views opening up after hours in the dense forest, was a deeply rewarding experience. It solidified my appreciation for Taiwan’s raw beauty and the resilience of its natural and cultural heritage.
Sights Along the Trail
The Tonghou Trail is a feast for the senses, with highlights around every bend.
Lush Jungles and Fern Valleys
A significant portion of the trail is enveloped in a lush, green canopy. The air is filled with the scent of damp earth and decaying leaves. Giant bird’s nest ferns cling to tree trunks, and the forest floor is a carpet of moss and smaller plants. In some sections, the trail cuts through what can only be described as a “fern valley,” where waist-high ferns create a corridor of green.
The Crystal-Clear Tonghou River
The Tonghou North River is the soul of the trail. Its water is so clear you can count the pebbles on the riverbed. The sound of its flow is a constant companion, sometimes a gentle murmur, other times a powerful roar as it tumbles over waterfalls. There are numerous spots along the path where you can access the river to cool your feet, filter some fresh mountain water, or simply rest and enjoy the serene atmosphere.
Remnants of the Logging Era
For history buffs, the scattered relics of the Japanese logging industry are a major draw. Keep an eye out for sections of narrow-gauge railway tracks, the skeletal remains of wooden bridges, and stone retaining walls built over a century ago. These artifacts add a layer of historical intrigue to the hike, transforming it into a mobile museum.
Wildlife Encounters
While hiking, I was delighted by the variety of wildlife. I spotted several species of colorful birds, including the endemic Taiwan blue magpie, and heard the distinct call of the Formosan macaque echoing through the valleys. The trail is also home to various butterflies and insects, adding to the vibrant ecosystem. Meeting other hikers was also a pleasure; the trail has a friendly, communal atmosphere, and I enjoyed swapping stories with a group of local trekkers who shared their snacks and route tips.
Practical Information for Your Hike
Proper planning is essential for a safe and enjoyable experience on the Tonghou Trail.
Getting to the Trailhead
- To the Wulai Start Point: The most common way is to take the MRT to Xindian Station in Taipei. From there, catch Bus 849 to the Wulai terminal. In Wulai, you’ll need to hire a taxi for the final 13-kilometer journey up a mountain road to the official trailhead. It’s best to arrange this in advance or be prepared to negotiate with local drivers.
- From the Yilan End Point: The trail finishes in Datong Township. From there, you will need to have pre-arranged a taxi to take you to Luodong or Yilan Train Station, where you can catch an express train back to Taipei. Coordinating transport is the trickiest part of this point-to-point hike.
Permit Requirements
Permits are required to hike the Tonghou Trail. You must apply for a Mountain Entry Permit online through the National Police Agency’s website. The application is straightforward but should be completed at least three days before your planned hike. Always carry a printed copy of your permit and your ID with you.
What to Bring
- Sturdy Hiking Shoes: Waterproof boots with good grip are highly recommended.
- Water and Food: Carry at least 2-3 liters of water per person and plenty of high-energy snacks and a packed lunch.
- Rain Gear: The weather in Taiwan’s mountains can change in an instant. A reliable rain jacket is a must.
- Navigation: A GPS device or a map app on your phone (like AllTrails or a local equivalent) is crucial. Cell service is unreliable.
- Headlamp: In case your hike takes longer than expected and you find yourself on the trail after dark.
- First-Aid Kit: Include basics like bandages, antiseptic wipes, and blister treatment.
- Insect Repellent: Mosquitoes and other biting insects can be present, especially in warmer months.
Embrace Your Next Adventure
The Tonghou Trail is more than just one of the best Taiwan hiking trails; it’s an immersive experience that connects you with the island’s natural splendor and multifaceted history. From the quiet reverence of its ancient forests to the echoes of its industrial past and the enduring spirit of the Atayal indigenous culture, this hike offers a unique perspective on Taiwan. It challenges the body, captivates the mind, and rewards the soul.
So, if you’re ready to explore a different side of Taiwan, to step off the beaten path and into a world of green, lace up your boots and plan your journey. The hidden paradise of the Tonghou Trail is waiting. For more inspiration on exploring this beautiful island, check out our complete Taiwan Travel Guide.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is the best time of year to hike the Tonghou Trail?
The best times are during the spring (March-May) and fall (October-November). During these seasons, the weather is cooler and more stable, and the trail conditions are optimal. Summer (June-September) is the typhoon season, and heavy rains can make the trail dangerous and impassable.
Are there any permits required to hike the Tonghou Trail?
Yes, all hikers must apply for a Mountain Entry Permit from the National Police Agency. The application can be done online and should be submitted at least three days before your hike.
What should I pack for the Tonghou Trail?
Essential items include sturdy, waterproof hiking boots, at least 2-3 liters of water, high-energy food, a rain jacket, a headlamp, a first-aid kit, and a GPS device or map.
Is the Tonghou Trail suitable for beginner hikers?
The trail is rated as moderate. Fit beginners can complete it, but due to its length, remote location, and some rope-assisted sections, it’s recommended to go with an experienced hiker, a group, or a guide for your first time.
How do I get to the starting point of the Tonghou Trail?
From Taipei, take the MRT to Xindian, then Bus 849 to Wulai. From Wulai, you must take a taxi to the trailhead, which is about a 30-minute drive up a mountain road.
Are there any accommodations near the Tonghou Trail?
The closest accommodations are in the hot spring town of Wulai, which has a range of hotels and guesthouses. It’s a great place to stay the night before an early start on the trail.
What kind of wildlife can I expect to see on the Tonghou Trail?
The trail is rich in biodiversity. You might see Formosan macaques, various species of birds (including the Taiwan blue magpie), and a wide array of butterflies and insects.
Is there cell phone service along the Tonghou Trail?
Cell phone service is very limited and unreliable for most of the trail. It is essential to carry a GPS device or have offline maps downloaded for navigation.
Are there guided tours available for the Tonghou Trail?
Yes, several local hiking groups and private tour operators in Taiwan offer guided hikes of the Tonghou Trail. This is a great option if you are unfamiliar with the area or prefer not to handle the complex logistics yourself.
How can I respect the environment and indigenous culture while hiking?
Practice Leave No Trace principles by packing out everything you pack in. Stick to the designated trail to avoid damaging fragile ecosystems. Be quiet and respectful, especially when passing through areas that may have cultural significance to the Atayal people.
